Hors d’Oeuvres

Smoked Salmon and Salmon Roe on Crispy Potato Pancakes

I often make these appetizer latkes from Sara Moulton Cooks at Home for special occasions when it’s just the four of us at home, because you can dress them up or down. Sam leaves the salmon and caviar alone in favor of the unadorned potato pancakes. Ruth also favors the pancakes…


Oven-baked Rosemary Potato Chips

In the late eighties, when I left Gourmet’s test kitchen to become chef of Gourmet’s dining room, I walked into the ideal situation for a chef. The dining room was small–I never had to make lunch for more than 16 people at a time–and I had no budget restrictions. I…


Crispy Zucchini Sticks with Olive Dip

In the early eighties I worked as chef tournant at La Tulipe, a three-star temple of French gastronomy in New York’s Greenwich Village. One of our best-loved–and most unlikely–appetizers was fried zucchini. I know it sounds déclassé: fried zucchini at a three-star restaurant? But Chef Sally Darr took this typical…