In the late eighties, when I left Gourmet’s test kitchen to become chef of Gourmet’s dining room, I walked into the ideal situation for a chef. The dining room was small–I never had to make lunch for more than 16 people at a time–and I had no budget restrictions. I could make sure that every dish was just so, and–because the dining room wasn’t a for profit restaurant but a showplace for the magazine–I didn’t have to pinch pennies. I immediately started putting out the best food I had made in my life.
Instructed to “make the magazine come alive,” I was mainly supposed to reproduce Gourmet’s recipes, but I could also contribute my own ideas and recipes. These rosemary potato chips were one of my earliest contributions. Everybody who loves potato chips also wishes they were less caloric. These delicious chips, baked not fried, definitely fit the bill. Today, you find baked potato chips everywhere, but at the time I thought they were sort of original. This recipe is from Sara Moulton Cooks at Home.
Extra-virgin olive oil for brushing
1 medium russet potato, peeled
Kosher salt to taste
1 teaspoon crumbled dried rosemary
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Brush 2 large baking sheets lightly with oil. Use a mandoline or hand-held slicing machine to cut the potatoes lengthwise into 1/8-inch slices.
Arrange the slices in one flat layer on the baking sheets. Brush the slices lightly with oil and bake until golden throughout, 15 to 20 minutes, checking often since they brown at different rates. Transfer to paper towels and sprinkle with salt and the rosemary while hot.