Some of the greatest chiles you’ll ever eat hail from New Mexico’s Hatch Valley, which is why – naturally enough – tiny Hatch, New Mexico is known as “The Chile Capital of the World.” This being the season for Hatch chiles, I thought it might be fun to showcase them at one of your very own backyard parties, perhaps over Labor Day weekend.
There’s something about the soil and growing conditions in that region of New Mexico that creates the uniquely delicious flavor of the Hatch chile…just as the “terroir” of the world’s great wine-growing regions produces the best grapes. Hatch chiles are long and green, boasting a thick skin and thick flesh. Their heat ranges from mild to flaming hot. Local folks tend to buy these local favorites already roasted and in 25-pounds bags, and then to store the chiles in their freezer for use throughout the year. The rest of us can snatch them up in supermarkets from coast to coast or online in smaller amounts, already charred and peeled.
If you’re open to charring and peeling the pepper yourself, just apply the same methods you’d use with any other chile: hold it with tongs over an open gas flame, or char the skin on a hot grill or cast-iron skillet, or place the chile under a broiler until it’s blackened on all sides, then transfer it to a bowl and cover it with plastic wrap for 20 minutes. After the chile’s had a chance to steam, the tough skin peels off easily.
Roasted Hatch chiles are one of the signature ingredients of the well-loved Green Chile Cheeseburger. Here I’ve swapped out the beef in favor of Portobello mushrooms. You’ll be looking for specimens with large caps because they shrink down when they’re cooked. And be sure to scrape out the gills before cooking the mushrooms (grapefruit spoons do a terrific job) because they become slimy when cooked and proceed to dye whatever they touch an unappealing black.
Even without the beef, this burger is deluxe. It’s glorified not only by the chiles and cheese, but by the smoky mayonnaise spread, and – the finishing touch! – the crushed tortilla chips. It’s a splendid way to celebrate the end of the summer season.
Start to finish: 60 minutes
Servings: 4
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons fresh lime juice, divided
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoons minced garlic, divided
1 ½ teaspoons ground cumin
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 large portobello mushrooms, stems and gills removed
1/2 cup mayonnaise
¾ teaspoon smoked paprika
4 chopped, peeled, roasted Hatch chiles (about 1 cup) or 1 cup canned green chiles
4 thin slices sharp cheddar (about 3 ounces total)
1 cup crushed tortilla chips
4 hamburger buns 2 tablespoons melted butter for brushing on the buns
Preheat the grill to medium.
In a small bowl, whisk together 2 tablespoons of the lime juice, the vegetable oil, 1 teaspoon of the garlic, the cumin, and salt and pepper to taste. Brush all of the marinade on the mushrooms, making sure to coat the insides (where the gills were) really well. Set the mushrooms aside for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, in another small bowl, combine the mayonnaise with the remaining 2 teaspoons lime juice, the remaining teaspoon garlic and the paprika. In another bowl toss the chiles with salt and pepper to taste.
Brush the cut sides of the buns with the butter and toast them on the grill. Set aside while you grill the mushrooms.
Place the mushrooms on the grill, gill sides down, cover and grill them 6 to 8 minutes. Turn them over and grill on the on the other side, covered, until tender when pierced with a knife, another 6 to 8 minutes. Spoon one-fourth of the chiles on top of each mushroom. Top with one fourth of the crushed tortillas, and a slice of the cheese, Cover and cook, until the cheese is melted, 1 to 2 minutes.
Spread the cut sides of the rolls with the mayonnaise. Transfer the mushroom “burgers” to the buns and serve right away.
